When you think URWERK, you promptly think Sci-Fi, space-makes, super current plan, sharp and intense shapes, uncommon presentation of the time and haute-complication. Like them or not, you should concede that URWERK watches are anything but standard. They elicit strong feelings from us, one way or another. Notwithstanding, custom and ancestral strategies are not words that you would ordinarily associate with URWERK… Until the brand came out with this unchained watch, blending century-old craftsmanship with its signature intense plan. Introducing; the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus.
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is a ludicrous watch. I say this with all due regard to its makers, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, and I’m sure they won’t can’t help contradicting me on this explanation. It’s strong, enormous, substantial, razor-molded, completely out of watchmaking guidelines, amazingly present on the wrist and a long way from being attentive. Don’t misunderstand me however, there’s no awful sentiments here. The UR-210 Amadeus may be a ultra-proclamation watch, however it additionally demonstrates an extraordinary scrupulousness, a fantastic degree of enrichment and of hand-completing, a staggering and exceptional showcase of the time, driven by a complex mechanical motor. This watch is loaded with contrasts, such a combination between baroque and science-fiction… Like if Johann Sebastian Bach was the skipper of the USS Enterprise.
The base: the URWERK UR-210S
At the base of this novel piece of horological workmanship, there is a magnum opus – or at any rate a watch that we, at Monochrome, consider thusly. For the story, Frank and I literally needed to battle to decide who will be the one to survey this watch, a circumstance that wound up in some shared wrist-time. In any case, back on topic. This Amadeus form is a visual advancement of the URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket , which doesn’t allude to Kubrick’s film but to the full metallic clothing of the watch. This absolutely was the most technical making of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, both as far as plan and innovation. While the showcase (more on that theme later) is the equivalent as all UR-210 releases (see the AlTIN or the Clou de Paris forms), the outside shield – a voluntary reference to military tanks – is extraordinary, made entirely from stainless steel, wristband included.
This gave the UR-210 a specialized and monochromatic look, and at a similar time, more steamlined – the wristband is nearly melded with the case – yet in addition a significantly more present day, more science fiction look. There is a wealth of metal on this watch, uncommon shapes and special extents that make an appropriate horological UFO. This watch looks like nothing else available and this is actually why it is such a triumph. Precisely and show shrewd, the UR-210 is a long way from standard. In view of a customary programmed development, the manner in which time is demonstrated is highly complex yet instinctive to read.
Centrally situated is the fly-back moment hand. This hand moves from 0 to 60 over a 120 degree curve, and focuses to the real moment. On its way from 0 to 60, it conveys the hour digit, and when it flies back to nothing, it delivers the hour digit and gets the following digit when it begins at zero once more. An exceptionally cunning framework pivots the three hour satellites, so the right hour digit will consistently be looking up, and fit to be gotten by the fly-back hand. The fly-back moment hand, which also structures a casing for the hour satellites, is processed from strong aluminum and weighs simply 0.302 grams. It is offset a weight, so it is adjusted on its axis.
Also on the ‘dial’ are two signs on the two top corners: left is a winding productivity pointer and to the privilege is the force save marker. The winding effectiveness pointer is something altogether extraordinary to URWERK and permits the wearer to change the twisting of his watch to his/her own degree of action. On the back is a selector which permits you to change between full winding limit, reduced winding limit lastly, to no twisting at all.
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus
To praise the 20th commemoration of the brand ( dispatched at Baselworld 1997 ), Frei and Baumgartner have chosen to utilize one of their lead models, the futuristic UR-210S, to make a provocative assertion, in light of a complete anachronism. For this retro-futuristic move, the UR-210 was changed by the expert hands of a talented etcher, Florian Güllert. “The enrichment is extremely post-Renaissance 17th-century, however on a decidedly contemporary structure,” comments Florian. “The whirling example of acanthus leaves is generally appropriate for this style, standing out from the precise look of the watch. We have combined the case, the crown assurance and the bracelet into one unit to make a remarkable piece. I was given the whole watch to deal with and I took it over to create a plan in steel.“
The pièce de résistance of the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is to be sure this amazing etching work, applied on most outer pieces of the watch – case, wristband, crown assurance – accordingly covering all visible facets of the watch when worn. The outcome should be considered from an artistic perspective, before any judgment can be made on the feel. The work done to accomplish these examples is extremely impressive. The metal is chiseled, hammered, engraved, pursued and is nothing similar to a modernly made surface, which we are accustomed to seeing in watchmaking. No satined or cleaned finishings here, the metal is unpleasant, textured and feels severe, standing out from the delicacy of the acanthus leaves motifs.
This meticulous work took Florian Güllert over 260 hours to complete. The most surprising side of this etching work is the way it figures out how to converge with the sharp lines and rakish states of the futuristic UR-210. While profoundly surprising from the outset, the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus takes another measurement when worn, being subtler and more reliable than we at first anticipated. This decency bodes well after Martin Frei discloses it to you: “we have advanced a strikingly contemporary idea of showing the time, yet it depends on a 17th-century concept (the Baroque era). I see the UR-210 Amadeus as a continuum instead of a contradiction.” The UR-210 has come full circle…
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is the sort of piece we like here, at Monochrome. Brimming with contrasts, yet incredibly steady, precisely insane, loaded with subtleties, with an astounding degree of completing, and completely exceptional available. Of course, some will just abhor it, which is absolutely justifiable. This watch is strong, enormous and all things considered, saved for mature gatherers – and it bodes well, as it will stay an incredibly restricted creation (expect 3 to 5 watches), all being remarkable (every authority can modify the inscriptions done looking into the issue). Estimated at CHF 210,000 (ex. taxes). More subtleties on urwerk.com .
Technical Specifications – URWERK UR-210 Amadeus
- Case: Width 43.8mm, length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm – hardened steel, full hand-engraved – grade 5 titanium caseback – sapphire gem on the front – 30m water resistant
- Display: Patented rotating satellite complication with meandering hour and three-dimensional retrograde moment hand; power hold marker; licensed winding proficiency indicator
- Movement: calibre UR-7.10 – 51 gems, 39h force save with programmed winding, 4Hz recurrence – Self-twisting coupled to turbines and winding-proficiency selector
- Bracelet: tempered steel wristband with collapsing clasp, completely hand-engraved
- Price: CHF 210,000 (ex. taxes)