RGM Watch Co., situated in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and established in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, is straightforwardly the solitary genuine American watch company standing. Dissimilar to different brands that might fabricate cases, dials or ties in America, RGM manufactures their own high-grade, in-house types that rival comparable movements from Switzerland. They’re a complete watch manufacturer. My first genuine mechanical watch was a Model 107-P Pilot, a section level RGM piece (with an ETA 2892-A2) that is additionally the most established in their portfolio, delivered since the mid-1990’s. They frequently utilize collectible, hand-worked machinery to make dials and to hand-clean components, mixing modern and customary methods to create extravagance watches that are regularly limited releases. Many have progressed complications, for example, the Pennsylvania Tourbillon or Caliber 20 (with a 2nd type motor barrel and “Exact Moonphase”), and are carefully embellished with expound motor turned (guilloché) dials and movements like the Model 801-EE. One of their most famous watch series was the Model 121-M William Penn line from the years 1999 to 2000, and in RGM style, they have reissued the watches in an extremely limited series of 10.
Named after William Penn, the author of Pennsylvania, the original watch had three forms, separated by complications. One had a date, one had a moonphase and one had a sub-second. The new watches just have the moonphase complication with a force hold show, and utilize original (new old stock) cases and hands with a recently manufactured guilloché dial. The company’s motivation for the case configuration came from another of their watches in the 1990’s, the rectangular Model 102-J Jumping Hour.
The rectangular case is 40mm x 28mm and 7.9mm in tallness. Two models are accessible, one in 18K rose gold and the other in tempered steel. They’re water impervious to 50m with sapphire gems on the front and back. As these are original cases from 1999 to 2000, they were manufactured in Switzerland. The cases are completely cleaned with a knurled, cleaned crown and the carry width is 20mm.
The dial is Argentium Silver, which has a higher virtue than customary authentic silver (95.84% versus 92.5%) and is motor turned in the middle segment (hand-cut guilloché). Encompassing this are three dark Roman numerals for each side, with the middle ones straight and flanked by two inclining away toward the corners. The top and bottom numeral lines are more extensive dispersed than the sides, adding some complexity and asymmetry to the tasteful. RGM’s logo sits in its own mini plaque at 6 o’clock, cutting off about portion of the Roman numeral, and the half-circle moonphase window rides simply above it. The force hold marker sits at 1 o’clock with its own exceptional guilloché. The hands are blued steel and everything is typically missing of lume. This is a dress watch through and through.
The movement is a manual breeze RGM/Jaquet 736, which is Swiss-Made and in plain view through the display case back. As this movement is a modified form of the original Model 121-M stock (from the company’s initial years), it is anything but an in-house type. It has 19 gems, beats at 21,600vph, has a 42-hour power hold and is rhodium plated with Côtes de Genève lines, blued screws and perlage. The movement has hours and minutes (no seconds), with moonphase and power hold pointer complications.
Both models come with a dark croc lash with either a hardened steel or 18K rose gold clasp. Costs are in accordance with similar extravagance dress watches and keeping in mind that costly, they’re not absurd. The tempered steel model is USD 7,900 and the 18K rose gold model is USD 12,900. In case you’re searching for a special timepiece from what unquestionably is the last obvious American watchmaker, RGM offers an intriguing mix of extravagance and selectiveness. Also, albeit this William Penn reissue uses prior Swiss movements rather than in-house, the scrupulousness, new motor turned dials and exemplary plan make the series a solid competitor against Swiss opponents. More subtleties on www.rgmwatches.com .