In a new close to home piece , our proofreader in-boss Frank, gave credit (really, let’s call it a love letter) to the superb Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days. The watch he examined was the platinum/white dial form that Grand Seiko (don’t call them Seiko any longer, as GS is currently a brand on its own) presented back in 2016. This was one of those uncommon occasions where we included a watch without an exemplary escapement and equilibrium, and it was completely supported for a few reasons. Indeed, today we’re doing it once more, as there’s another child around: the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days, presently in Rose Gold with a Sparkling Black Dial (Ref. SBGD202).
To make things short, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days is the exemplification of the quartz watch by the Japanese production. It has everything: the innovation, with the mark Spring-Drive development (a mixture mechanical/quartz); the looks, with an enormous yet very exquisite and challenging style; the value and top of the line offer, with a degree of completing that is incredible. It very well may be directed by a quartz crystal but this watch (ref. SBGD201) basically manages . No equilibrium haggle switch escapement? Whatever, the innovation inside is amazing! No Geneva stripes and a development that doesn’t show a lot of its guts? Whatever, there’s substantially more to mull over! It comes from a Japanese brand that sells € 300 Euro watches? You may need to rethink what these individuals can do…
Back in 2016, Grand Seiko dispatched this watch, the Spring Drive 8-Days ref. SBGD201, a watch brought into the world in the core of Seiko’s safe-haven, the Micro Artist Studio in Seiko’s office in Shiojiri, focal Japan, where the Spring Drive Minute Repeater , Sonnerie and Eichi watches for Credor were likewise conceived. This child was the lead of Grand Seiko’s savoir-faire, sharing a large portion of the highlights found in Credor watches (as far as innovation, completing and embellishment). On the off chance that its looks weren’t so similar to that of other GS watches, it might have effortlessly been stepped with Credor on the dial (editor’s note: Credor is a top of the line brand of Seiko, with an assortment that incorporates (among others) brief repeater, a sonnerie, a tourbillon and creative craftsmanships, for example, hand-enameling).
For 2017, this equivalent shocking watch currently comes in a subsequent release, anyway this time, thinking about the accomplishment of the main platinum form, no more restriction – which doesn’t mean it will be not difficult to get your hands on one. Same development, same plan, same case and in general determinations, but at this point, a rose gold case and a sparkling blanc dial (more on that later.) The principal rendition was ‘cold’ and specialized, this subsequent cycle becomes significantly more present, however not bereft of elegance.
The advancement working on this issue for this Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days Ref. SBGD202 just concerns the material utilized. For sure, the measurements just as the finishings stay equivalent to the platinum rendition, which means a 43mm x 13.2mm case, completely cleaned. This is definitely not a little watch using any and all means, anyway it wears pretty comfortable. The carries are somewhat short and the tie is appended low, implying that it embraces the wrist. Obviously, don’t think of it as a legitimate dress watch, yet more as an explanation piece with a rich shape.
The polishing of the case, which goes for what it’s worth (hauls, bezel, casebands) is finished by a Seiko-created strategy, named Zaratsu and gives the case pointedly characterized edges and inclines – just like the platinum form, this case is among the best completed cases you can discover available. Sharp as a razor, faultless, amazingly shiny… Of course, it is presently made in 18k rose gold, with the characteristics of this metal: lighter than platinum yet still with a critical heave to it, warm and dressy.
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days Ref. SBGD202 combines a gold and black subject, shockingly, with a brown crocodile leather lash however it simply appears to work. Nonetheless, it is the dial of this SBGD202 that truly catches your consideration. It is roused by a brilliant sky around evening time. Seen initially and in certain light conditions, it will predominantly show up as a smooth black dial. Nonetheless, when the sun hits the surface and when you see it in detail, you’ll see its excellence uncovered and it begins sparkling.
Thanks to a unique interaction that combines both plating and painting, the dial of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days SBGD202 appears as though sprinkled with stardust. It is vivacious, amazingly refined at this point strong and exceptional. On the photograph over, this “sparkling” dial has been upgraded so you can see it altogether its magnificence. However, in more standard conditions, this strategy leaves simply a marginally sparkling surface, not more (see underneath), and on a bright day…sparkles! For the rest, the dial remains similarly clear and shows similar hands and lists as the platinum adaptation, yet made in rose gold to coordinate the case. Both are done with a monstrous tender loving care and accuracy, with razor-edge cleaning and beveling. As you can see, no “Seiko” on the dial however rather the GS logo in gold and applied and “Grand Seiko” printed below.
In terms of development, no advancements. Inside the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day Ref. SBGD202 is as yet the staggering type 9R01. While the majority of the Spring-Drive developments by Seiko offer 72 hours of force hold (with one single barrel), the 9R01 stands separated with a 8-day power save, because of three barrels in arrangement. To limit transmission misfortune, the three barrels and fastener wheels are connected with no middle wheel – and less grating methods less wear and less loss of energy. Rubies are embedded into the barrels to decrease this grating between the barrels and the arbors. The force hold can be perused on a committed pointer on the development side.
As said, this development is a Spring-Drive, implying that it’s a cross breed. As you can see, no equilibrium and switch escapement here, as the development is directed by a quartz precious stone. Nonetheless, the energy isn’t given by a common battery yet by winding the three barrels, much the same as in an old style mechanical watch. This mechanical energy then drives the cog wheels and turns the hands. A fraction of the energy from the heart is utilized to create a minuscule electric flow, which controls a quartz oscillator. The principle objective of this development is a long way from passionate, nonetheless, it is driven by one objective: accuracy. Without a doubt, this Caliber 9R01 is exact to ±0.5 second out of each day (±10 seconds of the month) – obviously better than any mechanical development available… Frank clarified the Spring Drive innovation in detail here, in his survey of the platinum SBGD201 .
What separates this development as well, other than the 8-day power hold, is its wrapping up. Not that ordinary Grand Seiko developments are seriously completed (a long way from that) yet this one is simply on other level. The plates and scaffolds are created from German silver. The diagram of the scaffold and the inclining around the rubies and openings are hand cleaned. As should be obvious, the anglages are not level but rather marginally adjusted, something that lone a modest bunch of fabricates (even in Switzerland) can accomplish. The extensions and plates are rhodium-plated, the surface is straight-grained and the screws are blued. Generally speaking, it stays an incredibly attentive development that actually needs a connoisseur’s eye to be completely perceived. It is comparable to the best fabricates of Switzerland.
This new Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day Rose Gold Sparkling Black Dial Ref. SBGD202 is pretty much as noteworthy as the main platinum version, anyway with a fairly unique visual taste. The originally was a ‘technical and cold’ piece while this one has more warmth to it, and perhaps requires somewhat more certainty to wear. Nonetheless, the new “sparkling” dial is a gala for the eyes and uncovers staggering subtleties, while the general watch stays a magnum opus, both as far as strategy and wrapping up. The SBGD202 will be valued at Euros 52,800, and accessible around the world. More subtleties on www.grand-seiko.com .
Mind you, this one and the platinum rendition are no restricted versions, anyway they are absolutely restricted regarding creation, as assembling these watches is very time-consuming.
Technical Specifications – Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day SBGD202
- Case: 43mm measurement x 13.2mm thickness – 18k rose gold, reflect cleaned – sapphire gem on the two sides – 100m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber 9R01, in-house – Spring Drive innovation (quartz/mechanical mixture) – 8-day power hold – manual winding – hours, minutes, seconds, power save on the back side
- Strap: crocodile with 18k rose gold collapsing clasp
- Price: Euros 52,800 (retail value Europe)