At the SIHH 2018, Vacheron Constantin presented a pristine and significant assortment for the brand, the FIFTYSIX . With a reasonable aim to restore the client base and to bring more youthful and less in-your-face arranged expected clients, this watch blended vintage components in with a cutting edge, manly and somewhat easygoing plan. Introduced in 3 diverse adaptation (automatic, day-date, complete schedule ), every one of them accessible in steel or gold, it’s time now for the FIFTYSIX to up the game and to get genuine Vacheron Constantin savoir-faire. This has quite recently been finished with the expansion of a top of the line, automatic fringe tourbillon movement.
Background – the FIFTYSIX collection
In our audit of the complete schedule form , we clarified why we had been incredulous about this new assortment. It was more an issue of “wrong first impressions” in light of 3D renderings of the watch and a marginally “hipster” communication crusade, instead of an issue with the actual watch. Absolutely, this assortment isn’t awesome and could be idealized on some minor subtleties (a piece thinner…) however generally, it is one exceptionally wonderful watch – or 3 extremely lovely watches. We tried it and we enjoyed it. Period.
What is FIFTYSIX collection about? Indeed, so, an expansion program for Vacheron Constantin – an approach to pull in new clients, more youthful gatherers and a more “lifestyle-oriented” customers. How to do it? In the first place, play on the vintage pattern with a watch roused by the ref. 6073 created in 1956 and with a dial playing on the “sector” pattern. Blend this in with current extents, an easygoing style, automatic, dependable and advantageous developments, rather basic complications (day-date or complete schedule) and essentially, offer the watch in hardened steel – so the automatic form can retail for simply under EUR 10,000 preceding taxes.
So now, we move to the opposite finish of the range with the expansion of a tourbillon. Does that sound in accordance with the past methodology? Not totally, notwithstanding, it must be viewed as a leader model as opposed to a “cash cow” item. All things considered, Vacheron Constantin is one hell of a production and the tourbillon complication is one of its specialities.
The new Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon
The advancement from a basic automatic watch to a complex tourbillon piece is fairly prudent. By and large, it’s a similar watch with an alternate development. Consequently, the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon is as yet a FIFTYSIX all around.
First change compared to the Automatic release concerns the size of the case, that hops from 40mm to 41mm, to make some space for the enormous development and for the tourbillon on the dial side. Not an issue, the increment in size will surely be just about vague once on the wrist. The shape is the one utilized on the remainder of the assortment, with a strangely molded case with incorporated drags, straight flanks, a somewhat recessed crown and, something that is the standard at VC, delightfully planned lugs.
The configuration is equivalent to different releases: a fascinating blend of tastefulness with a trace of easygoing quality, an even mix of vintage components (box-formed sapphire precious stone, hauls suggestive of a 1956 model) and current extents. The case is very compact and moderately dainty at 10.9mm. The state of the between hauls is lovely and consummately coordinates the lash into the entire plan. This tourbillon variant of FIFTYSIX is dispatched in 18k pink gold just – at any rate for the moment.
As for the dial, no emotional advancement all things considered. This tourbillon form stays in accordance with what we’ve experienced in the past – with the expansion of a huge opening in the dial and a tourbillon inside, obviously. We have the pleasantly completed two-tone dial, with a focal opaline (matte) silvered surface and an hour ring that is brushed. The dial is vivacious and simple to peruse, with impeccably dimensioned tracks and hands and very much organized regions. Hands and records are for the most part 18k cleaned pink gold and loaded up with iridescent material – once more, to carry a marginally more easygoing look to the watch and greater reasonableness on a day by day basis.
The enormous gap at 6 o’clock on the dial uncovers a totally completed tourbillon scaffold and confine. Obviously, the tourbillon is held set up by a dark cleaned cross-over scaffold, with an adjusted surface (a tedious part to finish) and a pen looking like a Maltese Cross, likewise dark cleaned with different sharp, inside points that must be finished by hand.
Powering the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon is a notable development, type 2160 – this development was at that point utilized in the Traditionnelle assortment . Following the possibility of “daily usability” of the assortment, the development is automatic, yet not just automatic. It includes a complex strong gold fringe rotor, which considers a cleaned up perspective on the development and a more slender profile. This type 2160 beats at a conventional 2.5Hz recurrence – standard for a tourbillon – and flaunts a comfortable 80-hour power reserve.
The see through the caseback is profoundly fulfilling, with wonderful completing and itemized design – cleaned slants, inward anglages, slender Geneva stripes, cleaned screw heads and sinks… The development and the whole watch are affirmed by the Hallmark of Geneva, which ensures an undeniable degree of accuracy and the guidelines for the embellishment of the movement.
Altogether, the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon stays in accordance with the remainder of the assortment and depends on the cool plan ascribes of this new watch. It simply adds a captivating tourbillon development, in the vein of what VC can do. The cost is, obviously, more extreme than the remainder of the assortment, at EUR 118,000. It will be a store just release. More subtleties at vacheron-constantin.com .