Talking to Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai “2020 will be a Luminor Year”

By rolex
April 23, 2021
6 min read

Jean-Marc Pontroué was designated CEO of Panerai in 2016, stimulating the brand with new energy. Change was required however with a brand like Panerai, whose popularity depends on an extraordinary idea (1930s to 1950s military jump watches), advancement can be the adversary. We accepted the open door of the dispatch of the Panerai Luminor Marina Titanio/DLC Bucherer BLUE in Zurich to plunk down with Mr Pontroué and discussion about his initial 18 months at the top of the brand, his association with Bucherer, and what’s in store for 2020.


“The Luminor was made in 1950… The 70th commemoration of Luminor will be our significant topic (for 2020)”


Xavier Markl, MONOCHROME – Managing Panerai is quite possibly the most fascinating yet most troublesome difficulties for a CEO in the business! What is your inclination following 18 months at the top of the company?

Jean-Marc Pontroué, Panerai – Well, no, it is fairly simple all things considered. Such countless brands are endeavoring to make notorious items. At the point when I joined Panerai, I was adequately fortunate to realize that the brand previously had a notable watch with Luminor. That makes your work simpler. We even have a couple of watches that don’t bear the name Panerai logo on their dials: not many brands can pull off a ‘logo-less’ product.

But did Panerai need change?

What you need are innovativeness and a capable of business. You need to tune in to your customers and tune in to the market. You need to focus on customer patterns. For example, we have dispatched “experiences” that are an enormous achievement (editorial manager’s note: check, for example, the Guillaume Nery release ). Indeed, on the off chance that you set aside the effort to converse with a couple of your clients, you’ll discover rapidly that they are searching for such encounters. I was not the one to have had this thought. It is coming from our customers.

Yes, however this is a fairly new kind of activity in the watch industry…

Yes. And we needed to make the idea and have the correct thought. Yet, we have a lot of thoughts: item, bundling, encounters, ideas, you name it… When you are an Italian extravagance brand with the correct group, you don’t need thoughts. However, we need to choose the correct thoughts that are intelligible with the brand.

So, what were your challenges?

Well, I have a somewhat basic work. Panerai is a fantastic brand. We have 30,000 Paneristi who are exceptionally given to the brand, in a way I have never seen. A couple of days prior, I was in Amsterdam for the P-days, a three-day overall Paneristi gathering. Individuals coming from 30 distinct nations. It’s phenomenal to have a particularly solid and steadfast fanbase. We have a fantastic number of VIPs wearing our items. Stallone was one of the people that helped “launch” the brand. At that point, we are incorporated into a gathering, with circulation, shops and accomplices like Bucherer. We have a brand that is sufficiently fortunate to get and have stunning support.

Since you notice it, dissemination assumes a critical part in the business. How does Panerai deal with its distribution?

We have our straightforwardly claimed stores, our shops, and a few deals focuses with outside accomplices, as Bucherer. We are essential for the couple of brands that figure out how to produce significant turnover with a somewhat little retail space. Our business doesn’t need enormous “real estate”. A portion of our shops are 50/60 square meters. Then again, the area is critical to effective retail tasks. We have our own stores and shops we open with accomplices. I was as of late at the introduction of our Chicago shop, which we opened with a partner.

Then we have online business. This is another direct in the business. By and by, we are fortunate to be essential for Richemont that encouraged us open our web based business site. The gathering claims Yoox Net-a-doorman and Watchfinder. It has an organization with Alibaba in China. We are getting stunning help. So back to your first inquiry, yes working for Panerai is for sure difficult work and it requires exertion like running a long distance race. Yet, we are in a simpler circumstance than a considerable lot of our competitors.

What job does a retailer like Bucherer play in your distribution?

Bucherer is one of the not very many retailers to have such selling power, promoting ability and merchandising expertise. It is a trying company with incredible aspirations and a drawn out vision. Think about the obtaining of Tourneau in the USA or the manner in which they have dispatched and formed their CPO program. This is truly noteworthy. The Bucherer BLUE idea itself is sublime and they were the first. They are genuinely on top of things. Around evening time’s occasion, past the dispatch of a Bucherer BLUE version, shows their ability to reevaluate the best approach to introduce watches. Bucherer is a benchmark for us all. I frequently visit their stores to perceive how they are functioning.

They are genuine accomplices for us. It goes past purchasing and selling watches. A gathering with Bucherer is about what should be possible together to improve the manner in which we work and make esteem together for our brands.

How was the Panerai Luminor Marina Titanio/DLC Bucherer BLUE created?

It is a 44mm Luminor Marina introduced in DLC-titanium. The dial has been made utilizing the Bucherer BLUE Pantone. The development is our P-9010 with a shut caseback with a Bucherer etching. It is restricted to 188 pieces. It unites the most notable Panerai highlights. Working with Bucherer on this release, we needed something that would address American, European and Asian demographic.

Bucherer has quite recently dispatched its guaranteed used program. What’s Panerai’s interpretation of CPO?

We have some involvement in CPO in light of the fact that we work with Watchfinder in London. So we have feet in this new movement and we gain from it. We are acquiring experience. As of late we have had a couple of watches that sold at noteworthy costs at barters. For example, an uncommon Radiomir sold for EUR 226,000. Not many watches accomplish such costs for steel watches without complication. The resale estimation of Panerai watches shows the potential for CPO.

This year has been about Submersible. What would we be able to expect for 2020?

The Bucherer BLUE version gives a preview of what’s to come. 2020 will be a Luminor year. The Luminor was made in 1950 with its case and the utilization of tritium-based iridescent material. The 70th commemoration of Luminor will be our major theme.

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