Recently I had the favorable luck to make a trip with Ulysse Nardin to Bermuda, to experience the Americas Cup and become acquainted with the people of the Artemis Racing Team – who are supported by the Le Locle-based watch brand. During that trip I borrowed the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition, and throughout the span of the days there, I discovered what an incredible watch this is. Refined, yet strong, stylish, yet tough, and really ideal for any event. Here’s our audit of the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition, with new lacquer dial and cool strap.
Preliminary note: I need to say that the watch I have been wearing was not new. The brand’s communication chief had been wearing it and testing it for more than a half year, and it shows. On photographs you will see a scratch anywhere, and the waxed calfskin lash shows a pleasant dim patina. On a side note, I need to specify that the watch is appraised to a 30 meter water obstruction. In all actuality it was on the wrist of somebody who hopped off a precipice into the sea, and the watch remained water verification, and the waxed calfskin lash appeared kind of water repellant.
The Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time isn’t appropriately another model, as the Classic Dual Time has been in the assortment now for a couple of years as one of the foundation models. This, be that as it may, doesn’t forestall us from getting back to this model and particularly its most recent form, which, as you’ll discover, is honestly one of the coolest accessible. In view of the current adaptation, Ulysse Nardin is actualizing a portion of the new plan codes that we have seen for example on the most recent Marine or Classico watches – which means sleeker looks, more refined, and some additional vintage pizazz. The overall plans of the most recent UN models seem more controlled and less “outgoing” than previously, and the entirety of that at costs that truly become hard to beat. Obviously, in the course of the most recent 2 years, Ulysse Nardin has been moving in an intriguing direction!
This new bearing can unquestionably be seen in the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition. In view of a model highlighting a fairly complex showcase and a dial bringing out Marine ropes – with a particular example and polished steel files – the brand has chosen to give the watch a new look, with a clean dial and a contact of ‘vintage’, combined with a extraordinary looking lash, made to live and age on the wrist. What we call acquiring patina. The good to beat all/em> comes from the actual dial, presently made in lacquer – something that appears to become the standard for Ulysse Nardin, which now fully depends on one of its greatest assets, the disguised (and celebrated) dial-maker Donzé Cadrans.
Basically, as we said, this form is chiefly an update of a current watch, anyway the dial and tie change improve things greatly on the wrist, giving this Classic Dual Time a fresh out of the plastic new style and feel. Close by these visual changes, the model likewise profits by specialized upgrades, making its development one smart piece of mechanics with solutions to make your life simple.
Case and Strap
Although we’re taking a gander at the Boutique Edition, the Classic Dual Time sticks to the case that we have known for some years now. Made in tempered steel, completely cleaned – yet with extraordinary consideration and accuracy – the instance of this watch is really strong from the outset. Being measured at 42mm in width, it shows up rather enormous when you first handle it; an inclination that is supported by the full mirror wrapping up. It is a serious assertion piece, which anyway feels more refined once on the wrist. Most importantly, it is here combined with a lash that is everything aside from classic (more about that later). Interestingly, while this watch may be 42mm in breadth, it wears amazingly well, and a lot more modest then the number 42 would propose, thank to bended drags and a coordinated tie. This combination causes it to feel as though the watch nearly embraces your wrist, and wears very comfortable!
The configuration is in the vein of Ulysse Nardin’s creation, with ventured hauls and the mark plate at the left half of the case showing the restriction and interesting number of the watch. This plate is important for the brand’s DNA and even I very like it, I realize it is very troublesome. Whatever floats his boat. Two enormous pushers are situated to one side and right of this plate, at 8 and 10, to rapidly change the neighborhood time – these pushers have + and – logos engraved, on the off chance that you disregard their capacity. As I mentioned in the introduction, the case should be 30m water safe, which appears to be quite conservative, anyway that’s for the most part on account of the push piece in the crown, which empowers you to choose the capacity of the crown. As of now referenced, notwithstanding the 30m water obstruction, it will surely withstand an infrequent hop into the ocean (or swimming pool.)
Now, shouldn’t something be said about this tie? Truth be told, despite the fact that we’re taking about the tie, this matured/waxed cowhide radically changes the style of the watch – close by the new dial. The waxed earthy colored and troubled cowhide on this Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition adds the correct dose of cool and easygoing style. Furthermore, it is the sort of lash that is made to live and age, acquiring patina and appeal while worn. This is only a detail yet one that shows the new heading of the brand, which with little changes its picture, without losing its DNA. This tie is combined to a triple collapsing catch, comfortable and secured.
Dial and Display
The fundamental fascination on this Boutique Edition, compared to a standard Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time , is certainly its dial. While the style has developed, the material picked additionally separate this edition from the remainder of the assortment. Here, we have an amazing grand feu polish dial, in an eggshell color, warm and perfectly coordinating with the earthy colored shade of the lash. This dial is made inside by UN, with their own dial-creator, Donzé Cadrans. Indeed, this allows UN to offer such dials for a very attractive price level. Increasingly more UN watches currently highlight polish dials and to be straightforward, it is a wonderful move from the brand.
Compared to the previous editions , has the material has changed as well as the style of the dial, which currently has dark Roman numerals and marine-style, profoundly decipherable tracks for the minutes and the little second. Time and signs are given by blackened steel hands, with a prudent and exquisite leaf shape.
Several signs are given by the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time, in a purposefully unbalanced way – anyway this specific design is the thing that gives this UN all its appeal and uniqueness. While the little second is situated classically at 6, the huge date for example is set at 2. The subsequent time-zone, the fundamental complication of this watch, is obvious in a tactful however entirely instinctive window at 9. Additionally new is the crown-work marker at 3, with W (winding), D (date) and T (time). Hours and minutes are obviously on the focal axis.
All of these signs are very legible and completely valuable, regardless of whether it is the enormous date or the subsequent time zone; two highlights that are becoming very irreplaceable with our present ways of life, venturing to the far corners of the planet, or possibly being in contact with individuals from across the globe. Not all that much, just the fundamental and helpful features.
As with the vast majority of the watches produced by Ulysse Nardin, usability is one of the principle goals – the Ludwig Oechslin contact, on the off chance that you like. While at home, you should utilize this watch as a solitary time, implying that the hour hand and the window at 9 ought to be synchronized (hence the dual time acts like a 24h pointer). In any case, when voyaging, you’ll need to change the watch to demonstrate nearby time AND home time. Nothing troublesome here: push one of the two pushers are 8 or 10 to take the hour hand leap advances or backwards and afterward demonstrate neighborhood time. The window at 9 won’t move however, subsequently as yet demonstrating home time. The date will change likewise, forward or potentially in reverse, with the neighborhood time.
Winding and changing the watch is done through the crown, yet not by hauling it out notwithstanding. Incorporated into the crown is a pusher, which permits you to choose the correct position – W/D/T. This component is both actually intriguing yet in addition offers security over the long haul, as pulled-crowns are sometimes failed to remember and become a frail point. The huge date is changed by the crown, and can be remedied both in reverse and advances. When setting the crown to time-changing, (T), the development is hacked, and the recycled will stop, so you can change the time exactly. To begin the development again you push the pusher in the crown again, so the marker focuses to the W for winding position.
Inside the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition is a known development, the calibre UN-324. This motor combines programmed winding with an adequate force hold of 48 hours. It is a complex development, which includes no under 53 gems and comes alongside a few licenses (counting the protected quickset second time-zone). Obviously, Ulysse Nardin obliges, it includes an antimagnetic escapement and hairspring in silicon – don’t fail to remember that Ulysse Nardin were the first to commercialize a watch with such material, back in the mid 2000s, with the Freak ( see here for a survey and history of this noteworthy watch )
The look and improvement of the development are lovely, regardless of whether very mechanical. Screws are thermally blued, spans are embellished with roundabout Geneva stripes and edges are slanted and cleaned. The rotor shows a decent enamel medallion with the logo of the brand.
We definitely realized that Ulysse Nardin had the option to make superb watches on the mechanical side, without any difficulty of-utilization, where structure follows work. This is again the situation with the Classic Dual Time, which appeared to be an ideal partner when voyaging. What’s going on however is the fresh design bearing needed by the brand: more refined, because of polish dials and sleeker styles, with a touch of easygoing quality and vintage claim, anyway never turning to gimmicks. This Boutique Edition is certainly reviving and incredibly charming to wear. An ideal companion for incessant explorers who need to get around in style.
Furthermore, this Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition confirms indeed the brand’s aggressive value strategy, with a fair tag of EUR 12,900/CHF 12,900 (restricted to 99 pieces, just at true Ulysse Nardin boutiques). Not awful for a watch with such a development and refined finish dial. More subtleties on ulysse-nardin.com .
Technical Specifications – Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition
- Case: 42mm distance across – treated steel, cleaned – sapphire gem on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Dial: eggshell grand feu enamel, dark Roman numerals, blued steel hands
- Movement: Caliber UN-324 – in-house – programmed – 4Hz recurrence with inertial balance wheel, silicon escapement and hairspring – Hours, minutes, little seconds, dual time, crown position indicator
- Strap: matured and waxed earthy colored calfskin tie with steel collapsing buckle
- Limitation: 99 pieces (official boutiques only)
- Price: EUR 12,900/CHF 12,900