Review – The 2017 Seiko Presage Enamel Collection – Unlimited, Refined, Desirable

By rolex
April 5, 2021
10 min read

Seiko came to Baselworld 2017 with an extremely invigorating amazement (among all the wonderful watches which they dispatched …). Albeit a few of us had imagined that the Seiko Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph would perpetually stay an impossible dream – due to its restricted creation numbers, which sold out quickly – the Japanese brand this year revealed a full scope of watches for their Seiko Presage Enamel Collection . These new models comprise of one as well as four watches, all precisely fueled, each with the additional extravagance of hand-made enamel dials, and they incorporate the comeback of the amazing chronograph… better still these pieces won’t be restricted in production!

What is Presage?

While the greater part of us know about the Seiko 5 (section level watches), the Prospex collection (pro athletics watches) or Grand Seiko (top of the line watches, presently a brand all alone), Presage has a marginally unique picture. This collection, which has some “heritage” DNA and which is controlled by just mechanical developments, has remained somewhat calm for certain years, particularly for authorities situated outside of Japan. Indeed, it was once limited to the Japanese homegrown market in. Nonetheless, in 2016, Seiko opened this collection to the remainder of the world, and to declare this, they dispatched an amazing watch, the  Seiko Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph accessible in two 1,000 piece restricted versions, which sold out immediately.

The Presage collection includes no quartz or Spring-Drive developments, rather it is completely committed to mechanical types, every one of which is produced in-house  just like a custom of  Seiko. Vintage motivation is a solid element of the collection, with watches styled to address the brand’s rich legacy – see the  Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph whose dial is roused by that of the first since forever Seiko watch, the Laurel. At last, it is a collection that honors the ancestral savoir-faire procedures of Japan, for example, Urushi veneer or enameling. With highlights, for example, hand-made enamel dials, you may expect the offering cost of Presage pieces to mirror this degree of extravagance, anyway they stay truly moderate, with some watches  valued at well  under 1,000 Euros.

The New, Unlimited Seiko Presage Enamel Collection

Due to the eagerness which welcomed their Limited Edition Chronograph, Seiko has have taken a portion of the highlights which made that specific model so fruitful, and have fused them into the plan of the 2017 Presage Collection.  Therefore the new models have similar cases, comparative dials, a similar vintage pizazz and a similar mind blowing quality/value proportion. Rather than relaunching just the chronograph, Seiko will currently have four watches in this collection: two 3-hand watches (one round and one tonneau, the last won’t be highlighted in this article, as not accessible at the hour of the shooting), one multi-hand automatic and the comeback of the chronograph, yet with some slight visual differences.

The Presage Collection depends on vintage watches made by Seiko. While the principal Presage collection depended basically on the 1913 Laurel (the brand’s first wristwatch), with a white enamel dial and Arabic numerals (counting the red 12), this second and unlimited collection has different motivations. It actually depends on this respectable material but it likewise takes styling references from a 1895 pocket watch, the “Time Keeper”, for the Roman files and by and large style of the dials.

The 3-hand Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047

So, let’s start with most economical model in the collection and work our route up.  Amongst the four watches that Seiko presents in the Presage Enamel collection, the new Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047  likely could be the best arrangement of the part, an appropriate “value for the money” watch. While Switzerland will in general propose enamel dials in watches with 4 or 5-figure sticker prices, what you see here is an automatic watch, with in-house development and hand-created enamel dial for simply above EUR 1,000. The watch is very straightforward obviously yet this doesn’t degrade at all from its appeal.

This SPB047 is a marginally formal watch with its 40.5mm case, in steel. The shape and style is equivalent to the 2016 chronograph, with facetted drags and cleaned and brushed surfaces. The general plan of the case is wonderful, rich and substantially more downplayed than the standard lively creation of Seiko. Unmistakably here, the watch was planned to satisfy Europe and US gatherers, who are more acquainted with, and used to purchasing Swiss watches. Inside the case is the Caliber 6R15, an automatic, 3Hz development with 50h force save and rather fundamental completing – which is unequivocally what’s required for a appropriate workhorse, most popular for its precision and reliability.

The fundamental interest of this Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047 is obviously its dial. In the event that from the outset nothing appears to be bizarre – old style Roman records, white tone, date window at 3 – on a nearer inspection the magnificence of hand-made enamel dial becomes clear. This implies a few things. As a matter of first importance, enamel is only interesting in the tone and reflections it brings. In light of the manual mediation, the dial isn’t awesome, yet these little blemishes truly just add to its character. Indeed, there are some little defects, for example, the edging around the date window which may appear to be quite harsh in its completing, however these are eclipsed by its unique sparkle, and the smooth white impact of enamel. At its value point, the manual crafting of the dial suggests such imperfections – which must be acknowledged as a component of the package.

This “entry-level” edition Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047 isn’t restricted underway and will be estimated at an amazingly competitive EUR 1,100. An incredible cost for a rich, refined and part of the way hand-made watch.

The Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045

Next up, the Presage Automatic Multi-Hand, is a piece that we’ve as of now investigated on Monochrome , anyway that was in its “standard” version, with finished dial. On this latest variation, the dial has an old style white finish on top of a plate with fine herringbone design. Much the same as the original version (ref. SPB041J1), this SPB045 Enamel dialed release includes the very complex showcase that we appreciated beforehand, which means H/M/S on the focal pivot, date-by-hand at 6 (a traditional and normally very sumptuous presentation) and a force save marker at 9 (not that useful on an automatic watch, however it is as yet wonderful to have as a watch lover).

Once again in this Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045, we have a mid-range, in-house, self-twisting development by Seiko, the Calibre 6R27. This development is further developed than the 3-hand form above, as it highlights the Trimatic innovation, Seiko’s Dia-Shock hostile to stun framework, the productive Magic Lever Winding framework and the utilization of cutting edge Spron 510 combination in the springs. In expressions determinations, we have an advanced 4Hz recurrence and 45 hours of force save. All things considered, it is precise and profoundly solid, just as being nicely decorated – which is however much one could expect in its price segment.

The case is equivalent to above, with bent drags, satined and cleaned surfaces that other, and in general, it’s a pleasantly planned case. It quantifies a similar sensible yet present day 40.5mm and comes with a crocodile tie. Once more, the most unusual factor here is the dial, hand-made in white enamel. The excellence comes from its complexity, comprising of several layers. The subdials are marginally recessed, yet not in a “brutal” way but rather delicately. The printed dial markings in dark are top notch, and it is combined with equally rich blued hands. For the individuals who feel somewhat exhausted by a basic 3-hand show, this Presage Multi-Hand Automatic will give more than expected.

The Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045 is again not restricted underway, and valued at EUR 1,300 (compared to EUR 899 for the norm, non-enamel version). That’s a significant advance up for sure, compared to the SPB041J1, anyway this watch actually combines complexity and top of the line materials for an entirely sensible price.

The Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023

Last yet not least – emphatically not least. This is the one! When, at Baselworld 2016, Seiko showed the Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph , we all – authorities and columnists – realized that it would become a moment achievement – and it hasn’t disappointed. This watch, which at that time was accessible in two adaptations (one with white enamel dial, one with hand-made dark Japanese veneer), had everything: the exemplary look, the in-house chronograph development, the style, the selectiveness and the cost. Anyway there was an issue: just 1,000 instances of each version were delivered, and true to form, it was sold out practically straight away.

Thus, envision our amazement, when earlier to Baselworld 2017, we got the news that the Presage Chronograph was going to arrange a come back, however this time with a somewhat unique white enamel dial, and also in a non-restricted creation. Kind of a blessing from heaven. Jokes separated, numerous gatherers were marginally baffled, discovering there was minimal possibility of them getting their hands on the 2016 variant. Seiko was absolutely trying the market yet now, they’re pretty mindful that this watch was a perfect formula. So here we are, with the Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023.

Compared to the restricted 2016 adaptation, the progressions are insignificant. Truth be told, with the special case of the Breguet Arabic numerals – roused by the 1913 Laurel – presently supplanted by prolonged Roman numerals, an alternate hour hand and slight developments of the writing on the dial, this is the very same watch. Implying that the exquisite case actually holds the 42mm distance across and 15.2mm tallness (water impervious to 100m), the mushroom pushers, the cone shaped crown, the turned carries, the satined and cleaned surfaces, the huge dial opening and a similar presence on the wrist. Obviously, if Seiko was not imprinted on the dial, it very well may be an astonishment to find that this was actually a Japanese watch, anyway this was the raison d’être of the Presage collection: pulling in European and American top of the line collectors.

As said, the primary developments concern the dial, with Roman numerals, to be reliable with the remainder of the Presage Enamel collection, the updated logo at 12 (and the expansion of ‘Presage Automatic’) and a leaf hand for the hours, rather than a Pike-molded hand. On the off chance that it loses a touch of its extravagance, the new lists offer more tact and more class, with a specific immortal allure. Once more, the smooth white enamel dial is significantly executed thinking about the cost of the watch, with the slight defects that mean the manual manufacturing process.

Inside the case is the Calibre 8R48, a cutting edge incorporated, automatic chronograph development, an actually progressed motor. It without a doubt includes a segment haggle grasp – so-to-say, the most ideal combination for a chronograph. It likewise fuses Seiko’s extraordinary three-directed sledge toward guarantee the ideal synchronization of the hands’ fly-back.  It ticks at 28,800 vibrations each hour and flaunts 45 hours of force reserve.

The best news is that this Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023 isn’t restricted underway. In any case, this doesn’t imply that it will be not difficult to acquire one. A few sellers as of now have a holding up rundown, and the production won’t be on a similar level as a SKX007 for example. It will stay a very selective piece, notwithstanding, in the event that you show restraint, one day sometime, you’ll have the option to appreciate this amazing watch. Cost is EUR 2,650, again very great for such a package.

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