At the SIHH 2017, Cartier presented a watch that I considered a hit (this remaining parts obviously close to home), the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat . Thin, refined, exquisite, consummately proportioned, including a pleasant engine… Still, this watch may be risky for a few. Evident explanation: its cost. (It’s just accessible in gold.) Then, it very well may be excessively perfect, excessively basic for a few. Notwithstanding the current models (time-and-date and double time), Cartier presented a Moon Phases form of the Drive, which made many of these arguments be resolved.
After a couple of long stretches of wavering, and watches that were excessively ladylike or unisex (counting endeavors that neglected to stir enough feelings, like the Clé de Cartier ), Cartier announced its comeback to the market of men’s watches at the SIHH 2016, with the Drive – and with it, the re-visitation of what Cartier is known for, the authority of formed watches. The Drive de Cartier, presented first as expected and-date and double time (plus a somewhat confidential and not-so-applicable tourbillon version), was a declaration to the brand’s DNA, with a watch that was not round, not squared, not tonneau… but formed like no one but Cartier can do . Exquisite, manly, refined, unadulterated, marginally vintage and somewhat engine situated: a gentlemen’s watch.
After these first releases in the assortment, the SIHH 2017 was the event of developments, including the (as I would prefer) heavenly Extra Flat form – and obviously, as usual, it tagged along a couple of issues. While this thin version of the Drive may be more modest, more rich and fueled by a Piaget development, some won’t like its moderately plain dial – there are just 2 hands – making it too understated and some won’t have the option to manage the cost of it – as it is just accessible in gold (white or pink) beginning at EUR 15,000. Notwithstanding, this was not by any means the only Drive introduced at the 2017 watch reasonable. Another, completely offset and with barely enough complications was presented, the Drive De Cartier Moon Phases.
No large dramatization with the Moon Phases variant, as the essentials of the Drive assortment are as yet present, anyway this new emphasis gains in equilibrium and balance, something that was most likely missing on the two other standard versions, time-and-date and double time. For example, the time-and-date form needs to deal with a date window at 3, which affects the evenness of the dial. The double time, with its enormous date, its retrograde second time-region sign and a day-and-night window will satisfy a few, and others will detest its occupied and intentionally imbalanced dial. The Drive De Cartier Moon Phases tackles this, with an entirely adjusted and even dial.
In terms of case, no developments. The Moon Phases version adheres to the 40mm pad formed box. Accessible in steel this time – and furthermore in 18k pink gold – it estimates 12.15mm in stature, implying that it won’t be a thin watch on the wrist. Notwithstanding, as common with Cartier, the case has been designed to be comfortable and to feel slimmer than it is on paper, with moderately thin casebands – the thickness is placed on the domed caseback. Short and bended hauls help to situate the watch on the wrist, which is more rich and dressier than expected.
Dial-wise, we note a couple of advancements, obviously driven by the usage of another complication. Instead of the little second is presently a moon phases sign, with an old style blue and gold moon plate. Not any more second hand, nor a date window, implying that this Drive De Cartier Moon Phases profits by an entirely adjusted dial, balanced on the 12-to-6 hub. Moreover, the moon complication adds a touch of poetry to the watch, which combined with the nonappearance of seconds hand makes it a deliberate sluggish sprinter. The dial keeps the Cartier ascribes: wave guilloché design in the middle, huge Roman numerals in dark (with secret mark at 7) and blued hands.
Inside the instance of the Drive De Cartier Moon Phases is a similar base development as the remainder of the assortment, which means the programmed Caliber 1904 MC, an in-house developed and made development. This notable motor was the principal development altogether made in-house via Cartier. It is imparted to the lively Caliber de Cartier. It sits as a mid-range type, with prevalent completing (compared to the passage level 1847 MC ) and highlights a twofold barrel, for an expanded accuracy and a 48-hour power reserve.
With this new Drive De Cartier Moon Phases, the Parisian Maison may have the most significant and most adjusted form of the model: rich, particular and adjusted, both outwardly and monetarily, as evaluated at EUR 7,600 in steel and EUR 20,400 in 18k pink gold. More details on cartier.com .
Technical Specifications – Drive De Cartier Moon Phases
- Case: 40mm x 41mm x 12.15mm – hardened steel or 18k pink gold – cleaned and brushed – sapphire gem on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber 1904 LU MC – in-house – programmed – 4Hz recurrence – 48h force hold with twofold barrel – hours, minutes, moon phase
- Strap: crocodile calfskin tie, steel or gold collapsing buckle
- Reference: WSNM0008 (steel) – WGNM0008 (18k pink gold)
- Price: EUR 7,600 (steel) – EUR 20,400 (18k pink gold)