The Endeavor Tourbillon Concept is an object of hypnotizing magnificence. Stripped back to its basics, the bare, sans logo dial with its breathtaking fumé finish offers an enticing scene of the flying tourbillon. It is an arousing watch that impeccably embodies the philosophy that less can mean a whole parcel more. Moderation is a word that gets utilized a great deal to depict H.Moser & Cie’s. approach to watchmaking, where complications are returned to and shown in cunningly basic manners. Who can fail to remember the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Concept watch that took ‘moderation’ to exceptional heights with its stripped dial?
The quest for uncovered essentials
Once again Moser receives the pared-down approach with its Endeavor Tourbillon Concept watch, which was introduced at the SIHH 2018 out of a white gold case. The intentional demolition of any unnecessary interruptions on the dial allows you to focus on the turns of the one-minute tourbillon, demonstrating that complications don’t should be dressed to dazzle. Also, respecting the watch very close affirms my notion that Moser truly realizes how to catch a contemporary, cool, vibe that is rich and smooth enough to withstand the trial of time.
The smooth forms of the Endeavor’s 42mm white gold case are welcoming to the touch and delightfully finished with polished and brushed surfaces. As Meylan calls attention to, “the instance of the Endeavor family is unique in relation to other Moser models and highlights a bend at the back to sit better on the wrist. It is our high-end case held for complications like the interminable schedule. With its bended back, the ergonomics of the watch are enhanced making it uncommonly comfortable to wear.”
Note: A tempered steel case doesn’t convert into a lower value tag… As the brother of the white gold Endeavor Tourbillon Concept model with its crazy blue dial we are currently taking a gander at, a steel version with a rhodium-plated dial and blued hands is likewise accessible. Try not to be tricked into thinking that a steel case implies a significant decrease in cost. Truth be told, the steel rendition is simply CHF 6,000 cheaper than the gold model. It isn’t about expense cutting yet investing the watch with an alternate character and mind-set. Addressing Edouard Meylan the other day, he referenced another unequivocal factor that affected the choice of steel: “In addition to the fact that steel is pragmatic and useful, it additionally reacts to the way that, for strict reasons, men can’t sport gold in the Middle East – and this is a solid market for Moser.”
The hallmark H. Moser fumé dial
Forget about logos or brand names; the greatest giveaway that you are before a H. Moser watch is the dazzling fumé dial. Composed of various and developing shades of shading – in this specific case, a bright blue community with hazier hues on the edges, authoritatively called a Funky Blue fumé dial – the fumé impact is enhanced by the sunburst design with fine beams that radiate from the middle towards the edge of the dial. The combination of the tightened and slightly bended polished hands against the smokey blue dial is very effective.
According to Meylan, “95% of Moser’s deals are watches with fumé dials. Like every single quality dial, they are complex to make and you need to guarantee entirely stable conditions. Humidity, temperature and even wind current can influence the outcome and change the shade of a batch. Envision attempting to disclose that to a client!”
“85% of the estimation of a watch is in its development,” Edouard Meylan
The dazzling setting offers route to the superstar playing out its hypnotic one-minute turns in a huge gap at 6 o’clock. Moser’s watchmakers have in a real sense cut a hole into the dial to uncover the tourbillon complication. No extravagant boundaries or round casing, simply an enormous sinkhole that keeps your consideration bolted on the tourbillon. Fueled by in-house type HMC 804 and fitted with a twofold hairspring (additionally made by Moser, and potentially the hardest component of a mechanical watch to make), the programmed development has a 3-day power save and a bi-directional rotor that has been skeletonised to allow you to appreciate the movement.
But perhaps the most keen piece of the development is the measured tourbillon escapement. The thought is that, similar to an attachment, the tourbillon module can be effectively removed from its confine and adjusted by a watchmaker. “A large portion of Moser’s watches have a particular escapement. The thought is that you take out the screws, take out the escapement, and get it adjusted,” clarifies Meylan. “Also, we applied this equivalent standard to the tourbillon. You should simply eliminate the two screws, and the whole tourbillon module can be taken out. The bit of leeway is that in nations like Russia, where sending a watch back to Switzerland to be overhauled implies paying huge measures of duty, and getting a tourbillon fixed by a neighborhood watchmaker is close to incomprehensible, we can send our client a secluded tourbillon substitution, and the issue is solved!”
A restricted release of 20 pieces, the 42mm Endeavor Tourbillon Concept in white gold comes with a mark Moser kudu leather tie and costs CHF 69,000. More subtleties on www.h-moser.com .