During Time To Move 2019, Swatch Group’s own occasion to introduce the new assortments, Glashütte Original presented several watches absolutely in accordance with its standard origination of watchmaking, for example, the facelifted Senator Chronometer or an engraved PanoInverse . However, the superstar, the watch that the Saxon brand introduced first, the primary oddity for 2019… is a watch none of us really anticipated from the brand; a dive watch assortment named SeaQ. Following our first look just after its introduction , it is time presently to have a more critical glance at the advanced SeaQ Panorama Date, to check whether this Saxon dive watch is persuading (or not).
The Glashütte Original SeaQ marks the introduction of different things for the brand. In addition to the fact that this is another watch section, with numerous references presented, in different tones, sizes and complications, yet SeaQ is the main individual from another assortment, the purported Spezialist line… So, so, that could imply that we can hope for something else of these instrument-roused watches in the coming years. Presently you know!
For the previous 10 years, Glashütte Original has smoothed out its assortments, eliminating various references and adhering to only four primary lines; the exemplary Senator watches, the specialized Pano with off kilter dials, the more original vintage (Sixties & Seventies) and ladies’ watches. While doing that, the brand cleared out more established assortments, which incorporated some sportier pieces, for example, the pilot’s watches – by one way or another a German practice – or the Sport Evolution assortment. So to be sure, there were more hearty steel watches at Glashütte Original in those days, however never such device like, instrument-motivated pieces.
Now, let’s be straightforward, when we got the news for the new Glashütte Original SeaQ assortment, it came as a surprise. No discussion. This type of strong dive watch is unmistakably not what we anticipated from GO. Nonetheless, there are numerous purposes behind the presentation of this new collection.
First, SeaQ hasn’t surfaced unexpectedly, despite the fact that it implies jumping further into the brand’s history (play on words expected) and some more underground assortments. Recall that, during the 1950s and 1960s, when the brand was heavily influenced by the GDR and named Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb, the creation was centered around utilitarian and available watches, and not top of the line horology, just like the case today. This gave us some work of art, dressy pieces yet additionally a few sports watches, for example, the 1969 “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200”, grew explicitly for sporting plunging (something advertised, harking back to the days)… and that very watch is the motivation behind the new SeaQ assortment – the filiation isn’t difficult to detect.
And here comes the SeaQ Panorama Date
As referenced, there’s a second purpose for the formation of the SeaQ assortment, which has to do with key choices. Before, there were brands for dress watches and brands for device watches – the principle contrast between these two markets being costs and movements, as the “tool watch brands” were for the most part depending on outsourced movements. Presently, things have changed as have assumptions from clients. The sports watch is not, at this point carefully identified with instrument purposes and this implies that clients have the wish for top of the line sports pieces. Most brands have entered this market, even A. Lange & Söhne did, with the Odysseus watch .
Glashütte Original does things another way, however. While most brands play on the 1970s extravagance sports watch idea, GO previously had such a piece in assortment; the Seventies . Thus, to add something genuinely sports-situated, the choice was made to enter the dive watch market, another super mainstream fragment. This brought about two principle watches, one being the vintage-propelled 39.5mm SeaQ, the other being the current watch, the more present day, all the more very good quality yet no less completely spec-ed SeaQ Panorama Date.
Modern origination, vintage taste
While the more modest form of this watch doesn’t shroud its motivation, the bigger SeaQ Panorama Date will in general play on the inspiration of the past however in a cutting edge bundle. Absolutely, the dial’s format and the general state of the case reverberation the old Spezimatic, yet with respect to the rest, this watch is a contemporary interpretation of the dive watch.
The instance of this SeaQ Panorama Date holds the average late-1960s/mid 1970s plan of the Spezimatic, with drags that are incorporated into the casebands, sharps points and round brushed surfaces – plan pieces of information that were fairly mainstream in those days. The completing is extremely lovely, with pleasantly executed brushed surfaces and cleaned angles on the sides. The instance of this form, made of hardened steel, is topped by a uni-directional turning bezel, with an earthenware supplement and hour long jumping scale. All exemplary elements.
The case quantifies a strong 43.2mm breadth and 15.65mm in tallness. On paper, this seems like a huge watch – and in your grasp, it has a reasonable sensation of strength and weight. Be that as it may, the watch is undeniably more compact on the wrist and in reality even. Because of the common 1970s incorporated hauls, the case isn’t excessively long and embraces the wrist. So despite the fact that you should not anticipate that this watch should be little, at any rate it is a huge watch that wears comfortably.
The SeaQ Panorama Date is water-impervious to 300m, highlights sapphire precious stones front and caseback and a screw-down crown, which is somewhat secured by a cautious crown-watch gadget. Pleasant plan, exemplary particulars, intense execution.
Dial and functions
Most of the old Spezimatic motivation can be seen on the dial of this new assortment. While the more modest model plays again on unadulterated vintage hints, this more present day, better quality and bigger SeaQ Panorama Date summons the past in a more tactful manner. The 1969 model is effectively unmistakable gratitude to its combination of larger than usual Arabic numerals for much number and cudgel markers for odd numbers, combined with similarly larger than usual hands – and a maxi-bolt hand for the minutes.
This original design was the base for the new SeaQ Panorama Date, which depends again on similar combination of Arabic numerals and rod markers, just as similar style for the hands. Every one of these elements are larger than usual, making a maxi-dial feeling, however on the opposite of the more modest SeaQ, this Panorama Date model has applied and outlined markers to give a more extravagant and more contemporary appeal to this watch. These elements are liberally loaded up with Super-LumiNova. No compelling reason to say, readability is heavenly on the whole conditions, because of an extraordinary difference with the dial, the impressions of the cleaned metal or the exceptional glow at night.
Regarding the plan itself, these curiously large elements might actually feel exaggerated to some – in any event, this was my response when I previously saw the watch. In any case, in the wake of seeing it on various occasions now, I need to concede that first, these look very great and, second, these markers and hands give a remarkable character to the watch – difficult in a market as swarmed as the dive watch market.
Back to the dial itself, the SeaQ Panorama Date is accessible in two tones, one being an exemplary dark and the other, the current dark blue rendition. The two models have an electrifies, sunray brushed surface that adds to the innovation of the watch. The dials are domed, much the same as the sapphire precious stone on top, bringing about bends on the fringe – and that is, as far as I might be concerned, a long way from a negative viewpoint, as it carries life to the watch. As consistently with Glashütte Original, the execution of the dial is impressive.
As demonstrated by its name, this SeaQ is furnished with the brand’s signature complication, the Panorama date, which essentially is an enormous date on two non-covering circles. Is it fundamental in such a specific circumstance? Not actually, however in any event it looks much preferable proportioned over a minuscule date window at 6 or 3 o’clock.
Powering the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is the brand’s present day programmed development, the Caliber 36. This development was presented alongside the Senator Excellence assortment and will become the new standard programmed for GO.
This type 36 runs at 4Hz and highlights a silicon balance spring (against attractive, less influenced by temperature… ), which was a first for the brand. Its force hold is a comfortable 100 hours (approx. 4 days), by means of a solitary barrel (and a long origin of 68cm, created by Nivarox). The barrel is twisted by a weighty and enormous rotor, with a 21k gold fringe mass. The general completion is lovely and deferential of the German creation: Glashutte rubbings on the ¾ plate, cleaned chamfers, skeletonized rotor with the Double G, blued screws, obvious wheels… And this development is huge (32.3mm) and estimated likewise to the case, making it wonderful when seen from the sapphire caseback.
First, let’s talk about development testing. As all watches with type 36, the SeaQ Panorama Date is controlled and changed in six positions and to various temperatures, at four phases of the force save, and for both the exactness, the sufficiency and the length of the force save. This testing strategy is done inside. The watches are conveyed with an authentication bearing witness to of the results.
But… The SeaQ Panorama Date is, as a matter of first importance, a dive watch. As you would know, the idea of a dive watch is dependent upon target rules – all brands utilize the terms dive watch however, indeed, few could really be named dive watches. Be that as it may, this a watch from Glashütte and Germans don’t garbage around with procedures.
To guarantee greatest unwavering quality, each and every watch is tried and examined in-house for conformance with DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 principles – the two standards characterizing dive watches. Remembered for the testing strategy are the accompanying steps:
- Moisture in the watch – the watch is first warmed for 30 minutes to 40-45°C and afterward covered with a virus wet piece of felt. In the event that there is any dampness in the watch, it would show up now as dense water within surface of the glass.
- Resistance at under and overpressure – in the first place, the SeaQ is presented to an underpressure of – 0.2 bar. This recreates the utilization of the watch at high heights (in the mountains or in an airplane). The watch is then presented to an overpressure (as at extraordinary profundities submerged) of 125%. This compares with 30-bar or 300m watches to an estimation of 37.5 bar or 375m.
- Water-obstruction test and outer drying – The watch is uncovered in refined water to an overpressure of 125% (37.5 bar in the current case), which is maintained for a specific timeframe. In a subsequent stage, the pressing factor is then brought down to a slight overpressure of 0.3 bar. Following the water-obstruction test in a water shower, the outside of the SeaQ is dried by pivoting the watch under a blind of air. This guarantees that no dampness stays on the watch.
- Moisture in the watch after testing – Once again warmed for 30 minutes to 40-45°C. A while later, a wet piece of felt is again positioned briefly upon the upper surface of the glass.
The SeaQ Panorama Date can be conveyed on numerous lashes and bracelets. You can go for an easygoing looking dim water-safe nylon network lash – as far as we might be concerned, the coolest choice – or an exemplary dark elastic tie. Both can be outfitted with a steel pin clasp or a steel collapsing clasp.
The other choice offered by Glashütte Original is a 3-connect, brushed and cleaned, treated steel wristband. It is furnished with a down to earth fine change instrument, permitting to expand the length of the wristband by squeezing the Double-G logo on the catch – with eight little steps.
As we said directly all along, this SeaQ was fairly startling, as GO isn’t a brand with a long history in the dive watch market… So how has the brand fared? Quite well, truth be told. With everything taken into account, the SeaQ Panorama Date is a persuading extravagance dive watch, which can act in most wet environments. Is this its genuine occupation? Likely not, as most future proprietors will presumably wear it as a work area diver. Be that as it may, it CAN perform on the off chance that you need to utilize it the appropriate way.
Design-wise, knowing this “desk diver vocation”, the decision for an enormous distance across, a Panorama Date work and a better quality dial bode well. Consider this watch an equivalent to a cutting edge Fifty Fathoms, a watch with the looks and feel of a diver however made for non military personnel purposes. A valid statement is that GO figured out how to give this watch its own character. Also, obviously, the execution of the case, the dial and the development resemble every single GO watch, exact and clean. Presently, know that this form is somewhat powerful and requires a generally huge wrist. For those of you with more modest wrists, you’ll be glad to discover that a 39.5mm form likewise exists.
price and availability
The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is presently accessible at shops and retailers (November 2019) and will be estimated at EUR 11,000 on elastic or engineered lashes with a pin clasp, EUR 11,300 on elastic or manufactured tie with collapsing catch and EUR 12,200 on steel bracelet.
More subtleties at www.glashuette-original.com .