Chopard is currently an established individual from the select coterie of Haute Horlogerie manufactures and the brand’s ability to produce beautiful complications has resulted in this L.U.C All-in-One masterpiece and the equally great L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater, which secured the Aiguille d’Or at the 2017 GPHG . Equipped with fourteen indications spread across two dials, the L.U.C All-in-One was originally released in 2010 to celebrate the brand’s 150th commemoration. Returned to in 2018 in two limited versions – 10 in rose gold and 10 in platinum – Chopard’s most complex model to date is fitted with a similar hand-wound development, a similar 46mm case, but features configuration changes that give it a totally different face.
Janus: the unscrupulous god
Like the Roman god Janus, depicted with two faces, one looking to the future and the other to the past, the L.U.C All-in-One fuses Haute Horlogerie complications (perpetual calendar, astronomical functions and a tourbillon) with a contemporary plan ethos. Spread more than two dials, the fourteen individual indications comprise the largest number of complications at any point offered in a single L.U.C watch. Before we even begin to look at how the copious amount of information has been coordinated, a quick comment on the to some degree utilitarian, unpoetic name of this watch. More fitting for an all-purpose household cleaning product, I don’t think the All-in-One appellation does justice to the beautiful complexity of this watch. Done.
Like its 2010 predecessor, the dial side hosts central hours and minutes, a major date display at 12 o’clock, day of the week and 24h indication at 9 o’clock, a month and leap year sub-dial at 3 o’clock and a spectacular tourbillon and small seconds at 6 o’clock, with the classic black polished L.U.C connect spanning its measurement. Notwithstanding, unlike the earlier model, the plan and color scheme of the dial take a totally different direction. Gone are the imposing black Roman numerals and white guilloché background of the original, replaced with refined sharpened stone hour markers and a magnificent guilloché dial. Introduced in either a greenish-blue color (verdigris) for the 18k rose gold model and a fashionable blue for the platinum, the solid gold hand-guilloché dial is a masterpiece. The verdigris dial is produced using a galvanic treatment to replicate the alluring patina that can shape on metals like bronze or copper, only in this case the color has been stabilized so it will not change over the years.
Emanating from the enormous date window the guilloche ‘pleats’ fill in size as they stretch out into the southern side of the equator of the dial. The elegant sunburst guilloché theme and the applied (gilded or rhodium-plated) hour markers produce an almost Op Art effect that leads the eye in towards the indications while making the dial appear to be more spacious. The new, practically monochromatic dial color, replacing the classic two-tone (black and white) dial, communicates a more streamlined, aerodynamic feel and brings a touch of contemporary elegance to the watch. The subsidiary counters replicate a similar color as the dial and are snailed and hollowed for additional contrast. A subtle scramble of red to indicate the leap year and three markers on the minute track add an energetic touch.
The other face of Janus
Turning over the polished and satin-brushed contours of the 46mm case (water-impervious to 30 meters, which is unusual for a fantastic complication) reveals the second face of Janus. The converse dial has an equation of time calculator, an indicator for the 7-day power hold, sunrise, sunset and day/night indicators and a highly sophisticated orbital moon stage complication that will only lose one day in 122 years. All the astronomical functions are set to Geneva time, so no customisation possibilities for the occasion. Given its multiple complications, the L.U.C All-in-One is a large watch with a wide girth, but its ergonomics allow it to sit nicely on the wrist.
Hidden (but superb) movement
With five enlisted licenses, the L.U.C Caliber 05.01-L is covered by the Hallmark of Geneva seal and COSC chronometer certification. The hand-wound development, with its 516 components, is equipped with four mainspring barrels (Quattro technology) for a strong 7-day power save. Despite the fact that covered up, the development is superbly decorated.
Presented on an earthy colored or blue alligator tie, the L.U.C All-in-One model in platinum retails for EUR 374,000 and the 18k rose gold model EUR 360,000. More details on chopard.com .