Brice Goulard’s Baselworld 2017 Top 10 Favorite Watches

By rolex
April 7, 2021
12 min read

After Xavier’s and Frank’s Top 10 watches of Baselworld 2017, after our rundown of the 10 most read articles of the reasonable (just to give us a sign of what gatherers adored), it is the ideal opportunity for your unassuming editorial manager to come with his 10 most loved watches of Baselworld 2017. First all, prior to going into additional subtleties, this positioning isn’t about the 10 best watches of the show however it depends on my own preferences – and as collecting dive and sports watches myself, you’ll see it is somewhat one-sided. From a super-accommodating valued Oris to a complex Patek, here are my 10 most loved watches of 2017 (and indeed, every one of them are on my desire list).

First of all, without delving again into the subtleties of the climate at Baselworld 2017, you’ll see that our choices, regardless of whether Xavier’s, Frank’s or mine, are marginally covering. In this, you can see two clarifications. First, as Frank and I attempted to develop a homogeneous group, these choices mirror a specific intelligence, added to the way that the watches you can find in our choices are clearly easy decisions. They are on the whole very great offers. Furthermore, it can likewise mirror the trouble for us to pick, showing how restricted the proposal at Baselworld 2017 was.

The industry is in an emergency, as far as deals, however perhaps likewise as far as character. Advancement: very little. Dangers: zero. Brands are utilizing known codes, by introducing evolutions on existing assortments instead of restoring. They additionally play a ton on vintage. Legacy has been a fundamental trend… for more than 10 years as of now! It very well may be the ideal opportunity for something else. Inventiveness, versatility to new selling channels and to new contact channels with gatherers or normal customers, innovation… These 3 topics will be salvation for the business. Else, we may arrive at the final turning point. Yet, enough complaints, Baselworld 2017 was not so awful and there were a few watches that, on an individual premise, I’d love to (and for a few, I will) own. Ps. this Top 10 is in alphabetical order.

Armin Strom Watch Configurator

This is some genuine outside air. An appropriate inventive approach to make and sell watches. At last, somebody here set out to do how the vehicle business has helped the previous 20 years: a configurator. The possibility of the comfortable but instead severe watch shop is biting the dust. Picking a watch in a presentation without having the option to make it likewise to our character is so 1990s. For extravagance things, uniqueness and customization are now key. Extravagance is presently open even to us, simple humans. Thus, very good quality (contrary to extravagance) has to bring to the table more. Also, that’s were Armin Strom makes a gigantic advance: Imagine/Choose/Create.

The thought of the Armin Strom Watch Configurator is basic: a committed site permits to arrange each part of the watch, and not simply the shade of the dial and of the lash. Model of watch, development type, case shape, case material, case covering, spans and mainplate covering (with 7 potential tones), state of the stuff train, covering of the barrels and wheels, material and shade of the dial, shade of the hands, customized inscriptions, lash cowhides and stitchings… And this configurator will be accessible at retailers, for the individuals who need a “touch and feel” experience. Everything: you can do a coincidental watch, at a similar retail cost as an ordinary model of the assortment. That’s the strength of a genuine integrated brand. More subtleties here: . What’s more, see our video here about this extraordinary achievement.

Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver

When, before Baselworld, I got the information on a Bell & Ross jump watch with a square case, I was exceptionally distrustful (most definitely). On account of the ISO standards behind the name “dive watch”, imagination and creativity in this field of watchmaking is low, low. This is the reason most jump watches are round and with similar sort of dials. However, when I had my hands on the Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver during Baselworld 2017, I quickly altered my perspective. Indeed, a square jump watch works, and it works very well.

Bell & Ross accomplished to combine the notorious instrument-like square case with the imperative hour long rotatable bezel of a jump watch. It is toolish, it is extraordinary, it converses with me since it is a genuine diver (300m, all the ISO6425 highlights, a decent differentiation between the hands, the markers and the dial) and it has that B&R style that, as a Frenchie, I sort of affection. More subtleties here .

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

And another record-breaking watch from Bulgari… After the most slender tourbillon development (1.95mm) and the most slender moment repeater (3.12mm for the development, 6.85mm for the watch), Bulgari currently comes available with the most slender automatic development accessible, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic. With the assistance of a miniature rotor (obviously, as a halfway mounted rotor will irremediably expand the thickness), the brand accomplished (in-house) to make a development estimating 2.23mm thick. the past record, without considering possible models, was Piaget and the 2.35 mm type 1208P.

Besides the accomplishment, my affection for this watch is more about the plan, the general slenderness (5.15mm) combined with a striking and remarkable shape. The completely sandblasted titanium case, combined to a titanium wristband or a cowhide tie, the dial in that equivalent completion, the slight spot of the 7 o’clock situated little second, the Avantgarde look with striking shapes. This watch isn’t anything existing available and is just stunning. More subtleties on .

Frédérique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture

Figure this in your brain: in-house, automatic chronograph with flyback work, in an exquisite, lavish watch. What might be the cost of such a watch? CHF 10,000 likely. Indeed, you’d not be right, as Frederique Constant by and by set the bar exceptionally high. In the wake of having dispatch available the most reasonable unending schedule, the “accessible luxury” brand presently comes with its own vision of the chronograph, and produces the development in-house. And the entirety of that at a cost path beneath CHF 4,000. Now, it becomes very interesting.

Like we disclosed to you in the video here , Frederique Constant regards its typical methodology to offer a ton for a minimal expenditure – however without a bad quality, trust us. The development depends on the automatic type of the brand, on top of which a streamlined however effective chronograph module is appended (with star-molded wheel to control the chronograph tasks, an imaginative grip framework and flyback work). The watch is likewise presenting another plan for the brand, more current yet at the same time rich on the wrist. Extraordinary compared to other incentive for cash offers of Baselworld 2017. More subtleties here .

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Railmaster Master Chronometer

As we advised you in our “first look” article , Omega returns to its foundations with this watch, which I set out to call “The Essence of Omega”. As pleasant the 1957 Trilogy Reedition can be (all things considered, I can’t help myself…), this new Seamaster Aqua Terra Railmaster essentially is hyper-intelligible and offers such a great amount for the cash. In the practice of the Railmaster, the watch is antimagnetic… yet not with a faraday confine, but rather in light of the fact that it highlights one of the greatest standard development of the current creation, the 15,000 Gauss Master Chronometer.

In expansion to that, there’s the look. A device like steel case, completely brushed, with notorious lyre-drags, a pleasant steel wristband (or cool texture lash) and a dial to kick the bucket for. It is steel, it is vertically brushed, it highlights signature sharp records, it has some fake patina however it befits the model, it combines with incredible equilibrium a few numerals, a railroad track and a crosshair in the focal point of the dial. Obviously, one of the coolest Omega watches since a couple of years, with an exceptionally respectable sticker price of CHF 4,500. .

Oris Aquis Date 43.5mm

I consistently cherished the Oris Aquis. As far as I might be concerned, it has consistently been probably the best combination of effectiveness, cool plan and moderateness. As far as open automatic jump watch, coming from a brand with family, you can scarcely improve. With one little issue however: the hands and the case were not the best ones. Until Baselworld 2017 and the new forms of the Aquis Date, with a 43.5mm case (however which wears sensible), updated and more slender, and new hands and indexes.

It probably won’t be the unrest of the year, however all these updates make the watch stunningly better. More refined, all the more carefully formed yet at the same time very device arranged, with hands and files that currently seem as though they were planned jointly with the remainder of the watch. What remains is a sublime nature of execution, a clay bezel, incredible plunging limits and a Swiss-Made automatic development, with a super-all around situated cost of EUR 1,600 (EUR 1,800 on steel bracelet). .

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar “Pilot” 5320g

To all, no Patek Philippe isn’t misrepresented and indeed, they do have an inconceivable savior-faire, both regarding mechanics yet in addition as far as plan. Furthermore, when the old-woman encounters the possibility of vintage-motivated, it brings a watch with positively the most wonderful instance of Baselworld 2017. It is flimsy, it is consummately proportioned, it is rich and those drags, with 3 stages, are simply dazzling (and they are a bad dream for polishers). The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar “Pilot” 5320g has an appeal and a tastefulness that couple of could have design.

For this watch, PP additionally plays on vintage with a dial roused by antique pilot watches of the brand (they made a couple, very little). Arabic numerals, applied and loaded up with iridescent paint, needle hands and smooth tone, the entirety of that blended in with regular haute-horlogerie highlights of the manufacture, as the 5320g has an interminable schedule (with an additionally vintage and very Patek-like presentation). In the event that only… .

Rolex Daytona Ceramic Bezel/Yellow Gold/OysterFlex 116518LN

To be straightforward, I never preferred the advanced Daytonas. Since the 1989 versions, I lost interest in this model. It changed with the 2016 steel adaptation , which incredibly acquired in sex-advance, because of its dark fired bezel, giving the watch more difference, less sparkle and such a vintage feel. The last contention to reconcile me with the Daytona came in 2017, with the gold/fired variant, panda dial and Oysterflex arm band. Indeed, I realize I disdain the screwed pushers, I don’t like the abnormal situation of the sub-counters, yet I can’t help myself.

For Baselworld 2017, the valuable forms of the Daytona went through a little yet exceptionally persuading facelift – new dial, new wristband, new bezel – which in the end extraordinarily change the view of the watch. Also, the worst… I generally don’t like gold, and especially gold Rolexes. However, that 116518LN Yellow gold has such a lot of allure. The EUR 25,250 sticker price is somewhat of a virus shower though. .

Seiko Prospex Diver SLA017 Recreation of the 62Mas

If Seiko needed to do one vintage reedition, it must be this one; the famous 62Mas, the amazing mother of all the Propex jump watches. This watch is among legends, as the primary expert jump watches of Seiko (and we as a whole think about the family of Seiko in this particular field of activity). For Baselworld 2017, the Japanese brand accompanied a wonderful entertainment of the 62Mas, under the reference SLA017 . Hardly any concessions to innovation, an extremely low limit and a sticker price that some didn’t see, however in general, a genuinely alluring edition.

The SLA017 keeps things basic, with a sensible 39.9mm case, having a similar utilitarian look as the predecessor. The dial is simply cool, so are the hands and the elastic tie. Everything has been dependably reedited. Be that as it may, it required EUR 3,800 and just 2,000 pieces will be delivered. Implying that it will positively be a future collector. .

Tudor Black Bay Steel and Gold 79733N

At first, when seeing the watch on a screen, I said “why????” Why Tudor is making the Black Bay, a rather utilitarian vintage-arranged jump watch, in a steel and gold combination? It basically doesn’t fit the idea. And afterward, I strapped it on the wrist and that was finished. Indeed, the Steel and Gold Tudor Black Bay is just cool. Indeed, the combination works extraordinary. Indeed, even the date, a component I was suspicious about, is correct its place in this context.

The Tudor Black Bay Steel and Gold 79733N actually depends on the conventional (and very much manufactured) 41mm of the model, with a bolted wristband that fits the entire thought. For this two-tone form, the bezel and the principal connection of the wristband are made in strong 18k yellow gold, while the crown and the middle connections of the arm band are gold covered (not plated), implying that it even has the smart thought to stay open, as evaluated at EUR 4,690 (and even EUR 3,550 on cowhide). I prefer not to say it, yet I love this new release. .