When Vacheron Constantin declared the presentation of another assortment, the FiftySix , only in front of the SIHH 2018, we were (believe it or not) rather incredulous. I can review conversations with Frank about the plan, the manner in which the brand communicated the model, the “entry-level” approach or the millennial target. However, as it’s been said, early introductions can be wrong… So we chose to give this Vacheron Constantin FiftySix another opportunity, yet this time by wearing it. Furthermore, for that, we picked the most complex (and generally engaging) adaptation, the Complete Calendar.
Why were we incredulous about the VC FiftySix?
Being writers – or possibly, individuals who run a magazine – we typically get visuals and public statements about new models ahead of time. Thusly, we have the opportunity to plan articles so you can appreciate finding out about curiosities right when they are authoritatively dispatched. This was the situation with the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix, which we found a couple of days before the SIHH 2018. However, what we found were just some press photographs (so-called soldat pictures or 3D renderings – see underneath) that regularly don’t offer credit to the actual watches. No feeling of extents, no profundity, no reflections… Such pictures are made for lustrous paper and don’t help trasnmit a target assessment on the watches.
When we saw the pictures of the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix interestingly, Frank and I turned out to be incredulous to be sure. The watches looked plain level and didn’t show the standard class of a VC watch. Surely, we saw a marginally surprising shape, however we missed the extents and measurements of this watch on the wrist. Same went for the dials, which showed up too monochromatic and without that genuine VC inventiveness – by and by, on photographs. This is the place where a test on the wrist bodes well – and for us as well as for you when you need to put resources into another watch. Press pictures can be truly deceptive.
The second purpose of conversation was about the technique itself. Dispatched in steel, the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix was unmistakably planned to be a “entry-level” choice for the brand. Therefore, the less complex model, the Automatic, is furnished with a development created by ValFleurier and dependent on a Cartier ébauche – despite the fact that it highlights explicit extensions and a significantly more point by point enhancement. No Hallmark of Geneva here and a sticker price of EUR 10,000 preceding assessments. In any case, taking a gander at the Complete Calendar and the Day-Date forms, costs went up to EUR 20,000 in steel – and over EUR 30,000 in gold. Not what we would mark as a “entry-level” observe any longer. Once more, this was without having contacted and felt the watches and comprehended that they were more subjective than we thought.
Why wearing the watch changed our minds?
So what has changed since our initial introduction? Indeed, so, we’ve been wearing the watches seriously. Also, trust us, that makes a huge difference. A watch is something that you have with you consistently, throughout the day. It’s like some pants. It can glance great in a store’s exhibit and be a genuine agony once worn. A watch is something that should be on the wrist to uncovers its magnificence or its imperfections. It lives, it plays with the light and it’s about extents – and not about the measurements imprinted on a particular sheet.
This is the place where the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix demonstrated an extraordinary amazement. At the point when we originally saw the watches in the metal, the excellence of the case and the class of its extents quickly appeared well and good. Unquestionably, it isn’t a super dainty watch and the case could be marginally more slender. In any case, it is substantially more charming on the wrist than when found in a showcase window or in the pages of a gleaming air terminal magazine.
The case shows up more compact, more adjusted and fundamentally, significantly more roused in the metal, when surrounding light and reflections show up on its cleaned surfaces. The surfaces, some raised, some sunken, the points, the combination of round shapes and straight lines, make a cautiously unique plan. An exercise for us all: ALWAYS give watches a shot the wrist before you even consider getting them – or before you need to compose an assessment situated article.
The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar in detail
When I initially expounded on this new model , this is the thing that I said as a presentation “The new Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX is intended to pull in new watch fans. We mean more youthful, less blessed and possibly less no-nonsense authorities. To arrive at that gathering of clients, VC dealt with both a more contemporary plan, yet still very Vacheron generally speaking, just as making an all around situated offer cost wise.” Not that I have totally altered my perspective since, however I need to subtlety these words a piece since Frank and I have worn the watch.
This position is valid for one model just, the Steel Automatic adaptation. The two different models, the Day-Date and the Complete Calendar we’re seeing today, are considerably more VC-arranged. The fastidiously completed development, gold (or steel) cases and customary complication/show are particularly in accordance with Vacheron’s exemplary plan. Nonetheless, the facts confirm that the plan, combining innovation, class and a slight vintage feel will positively converse with potential new clients.
The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar is, clearly, a reasonable watch on the wrist. This form, with its more complex triple/complete calendar complication, has a marginally thicker case. Notwithstanding, on the opposite of my opinion, this relative thickness – 11.60mm, not particularly thick either – fits the state of the case and makes it lovely to look and wear. The drags are short, implying that it sits well on most wrists. At long last, the state of this watch, a blend between a round and a tonneau watch, has the right to be somewhat present on the wrist. I know, it is very difficult to clarify with words yet I had the inclination that this watch was very well proportioned.
As for the dial, the equivalent can be said. While it showed up very plain and level on the authority photographs, the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix, particularly this Complete Calendar adaptation, is considerably more fun loving in genuine light. The decision of a “sector” or “two-tone” dial is somewhat dans l’air du temps however functions admirably with the general plan and 1950s motivation. Not exclusively is the dial all around fragmented, with a few territories delimiting the various signs, yet it additionally includes distinctive finishes.
As you can see, the date ring has concentric notches, the hour ring highlights a metallic sunray brushed example close by profoundly raised numerals and lists, and the focal area, which contains the calendar sign and the moon stage, is opaline wrapped up. One contrast between the gold and steel models is the shade of the dial. The gold adaptation is shiny white and accordingly more traditional. The steel version is metallic dim, for a more easygoing, somewhat hazier look.
As for the development, Vacheron Constantin has an alternate system here than with the easier 3-hand model. No rethought development here except for an in-house, Hallmark of Geneva-ensured programmed type. Albeit the two watches may be in a similar assortment, they don’t play comparable. Once more, I was very shocked, from the outset, by this decision. In the wake of considering everything, I think I comprehend the purposes for this strategy.
Such a watch, with a complete calendar, will stay more restrictive than the 3-hander and accordingly, will focus on an alternate crowd – more conventional, more used to complicated watches or even gatherers that are now customers of the brand. Having a pleasantly executed assembling type in this setting bodes well than with the 3-hand adaptation, which has been made to pull in new customers.
In a similar vein, VC settled on the decision of a programmed development, rather than the hand-wound base type found in the Historiques 1948 – what has a similar calendar module. The FiftySix is more youthful, more easygoing and more “urban”. A programmed development bodes well in this specific situation. Concerning the development itself, it is the notable and perfectly completed calibre 2460. The view through the sapphire caseback, with perfectly brightened spans and an openworked gold rotor, is charming. My solitary complaint about this development is the length of the force save – just 40 hours.
The articulation “don’t judge on first impressions” bodes well with this Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar. While we were somewhat intense with VC when it introduced the watch, I sincerely figure the brand improved occupation than I envisioned. Having the opportunity to wear this watch and play with it for a couple of days – and share my impressions with Frank, who likewise wore it – the FiftySix is a fair and roused watch, agreeably planned, proportional and greatly completed – in any event, this Complete Calendar form. More restrictive and more develop than the 3-hander form, its cost is, obviously, appropriately higher: EUR 22,600 in steel and EUR 35,300 in 18k rose gold. Not a modest watch without a doubt, but rather not an economically executed piece by the same token. More subtleties on www.vacheron-constantin.com .