Visiting the Romain Gauthier make is an educational encounter. One of the best delegates of the Vallée-de-Joux mastery, this autonomous watchmaker creates a little more than 50 pieces every year with an uncommon degree of completing and an uncompromising watchmaking ethos. To exhibit this, we investigate the super nitty gritty and complex Romain Gauthier Logical One.
Indeed, it comes as nothing unexpected to anyone acquainted with crafted by Romain Gauthier to see detail-fixated experts at work there. Nonetheless, the company’s ability works out in a good way past this. A huge piece of his action, less known yet really wonderful, is centered around creating development components – both for Romain Gauthier (the brand), yet in addition for outsiders. The skill and best in class machine park are noteworthy, clarified by the creation of profoundly complex parts sourced by the absolute most esteemed names in the industry.
(Editor’s note: Romain Gauthier was formerly working for François Golay, a company specialized in mechanical watch components, including top notch wheels – the company was subsequently consumed by Frédéric Piguet SA, part of the Swatch Group).
Among the brand’s manifestations, the Logical One holds an extraordinary spot. This watch includes an extraordinary consistent power component. Consistent power is a chalice of watchmaking and chronometry. The lessening main thrust conveyed to the oscillator of watches influences their rate – balance wheels are not totally isochronous and the diminishing force contrarily affects accuracy.
Invented during the 15th century, the fusée-and-chain system is one of the most punctual answers for convey steady power to the controlling organ of a watch. A fusée comprises of a cone-molded pulley, connected to a chain looped around the barrel. The fusée highlights a twisting string to get the chain. Because of the expanding periphery of the string, the decreasing power of the origin is compensated (a lot of like the outfitting of a bike). As the origin loosens up, the chain moves on the barrel and off the fusée. The expanding influence of the fusée compensates for the disappearing force of the barrel.
The Romain Gauthier Logical One highlights an advanced reevaluation of the fusée-and-chain, gladly uncovered on the dial side of the watch. A lethargic pivoting snail cam replaces the fusée and takes into consideration the transmission of power in an orderly fashion, without twist of the chain whose connections include low-contact, hard-wearing engineered rubies. To wipe out lopsided erosion, the barrel turns in the middle of engineered sapphire plates.
With a 35.5mm distance across, the hand-wound development is created and made altogether in-house, including the controlling organ (trimming the hairspring, sticking up the collet, balancing the equilibrium – and an exceptional three-sided bed for greatest inflexibility). The development design is wonderful with a great deal of visual profundity and liquid bends for the scaffolds. Working at 28,000vph, it can put away to 46 hours of force hold – which may appear to be somewhat low. Notwithstanding, a 46-hour power hold is very decent for a fusée-and-chain development. It comprises 359 components, including 63 gems (26 for the chain).
The eminent completing of the development highlights snailing, icing, straight graining and round graining. The most noteworthy part: the slopes have an adjusted profile (bercé for those anxious to construct their French watchmaking jargon) rather than the level surface seen on the majority of the watches. This is madly hard to accomplish as the bend should be amazing along the entire state of the scaffolds. This kind of finish is performed by a modest bunch of craftsmen.
The slants are quietly hand-made and hand-cleaned. Their surface is fastidiously cleaned to acquire a uniform radiance without even the smallest defect. This is performed first with a document to shape the incline, at that point with a wooden stake. The last brilliance is acquired utilizing gentian finishing wood that Romain Gauthier gathers himself in the Vallée-de-Joux. The gem breaks are treated with a similar consideration. The fountainhead barrel connect alone requires almost 3 months to get it from a crude piece of metal into its completed state. In the trademark Romain Gauthier style, the wheels highlight roundabout spokes and the screw heads come with a S-opening. Generally, more than 90 hours of hand-completing are spent on the movement.
The development is housed in a 43mm round platinum case – in spite of the fact that variations are accessible in gold or in titanium. The crown at 2 o’clock considers time setting, while the first pusher set into the case band at 9 o’clock takes into account winding. The dial is darkened metal with a Clous de Paris guilloché theme combined with 18k gold openwork hands. The last touch is set with a sublime hand-sewed croc lash with a pin buckle.
The Logical One was granted the prize for Best Men’s Complication watch at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The cost for the watch begins at CHF 108,000 for the titanium version with a “Clous de Paris” dial. The platinum variant investigated here retails for CHF 145,000. For more data, www.romaingauthier.com .