Every brand, at any rate those with a recorded foundation, has its own trademarks, those undeniable signs that make its DNA, assisting individuals with rapidly recognizing a watch from a specific brand. For a few, it is the state of the case or a hand, for other people, it very well may be the complication utilized. For one brand, Urban Jürgensen, these are little subtleties, anyway with a particularly level of execution that they merit a whole story in this magazine – something that we’ll attempt to represent with the furthest down the line expansion to the list, the brilliant 1140RG in Rose Gold with a dim brown dial.
The Urban Jürgensen reference 1140 is a watch that we previously covered here, when the brand revealed a stunning platinum rendition, with blue dial and applied Breguet numerals (indeed, for this situation, the name Breguet doesn’t just allude to the assembling yet in addition to the state of the numerals, which have been broadly utilized in the watch business). For this situation, we allude to the old style form of this watch, with a customary Swiss switch escapement, and not the actually great 1140C variant, which includes a detent escapement ( a watch completely clarified here ).
Basically, the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG is the rose gold, brown dial, mallet lists form of the current watch here . It is a basic watch, with just 3 hands and no particular complications (except for a twin-barrel), in any case, all the interest of this piece is determined from its remarkable class and the prevalent completing of all its components, case, dial, hands and development notwithstanding, which drives us to the 4 subtleties that you should see on this watch, to completely value the what the ideas of haute-horlogerie and hand-made mean.
The hand-guilloché dial
In the watch business, there’s extravagance and afterward there’s very good quality. As we’ve consistently tried to illustrate, there’s a significant improvement between the two, anyway this is often only noticeable to trained eyes, and just in the details – subtleties that make the excellence of an article. Concerning dials with guilloché-like or genuine guilloché designs, there are two different ways to get things done. The first, the most common and, you got it, the least expensive route is by stepping the dial. A clear plate is squeezed under such a grid with a turned around design, “printing” a few reliefs and breaks on a dial. There’s nothing amiss with it, as it brings a pleasant surface, and permits the proprietor to appreciate an old style plan effortlessly – Montblanc or Frédérique Constant utilize this method for case, on watches valued far beneath 5K.
However, there’s every subsequent strategy, one that makes an article brimming with life, loaded with subtleties, for certain abnormalities – and as far as craftsmanship, anomalies are normally an indication of a human mediation. This resembles the difference between hand-sewed sacks by Hermes and machine-sewed packs by Lancel. It may just be a detail, however it is the one that gives an item the entirety of its refinement. With Urban Jurgensen, the dials are created using a customary and hand-made method, the motor turning measure additionally called guillochage in French. A hand-controlled machine (as a rule exceptionally old, as it is the situation for the Urban Jürgensen dial-creator) repeats an example that has been engraved on a network on a strong silver plate. The machine requires very careful control, to apply the equivalent pressure on all pieces of the dial to make an even pattern all over.
The fine guilloché one-piece strong silver dial delivered by Urban Jürgensen on the 1140RG needs up to 700 tasks and requires 2 entire long stretches of hand work to complete. The outcome is an assortment of complex and monotonous examples. On account of the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, we have a Grains d’orges (barleycorn) on the focal region of the dial and Guilloché Damier design (checkered) inside the little second sub-dial. These are not by any means the only surfaces found on the dial nonetheless, concerning case the hour ring is surrounded by two circles with grain design and the chapter ring is roundabout brushed. This make a dial loaded with surface, tactful from the start however very definite when intently observed.
The hand-made hands
To complement such a dial, there is plainly no likelihood to have machine-made hands. In fact, the vast majority of watches feature hands made by basically stamping a slender sheet of metal, at that point getting done with a few beautification and painting measures. By and by, this is the easy way. On the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, the decision was for the complex, tedious way, anyway with an outcome that is basically dazzling. The nearby photograph underneath will surely give the show of “attention to the details”.
We might have discussed the lists as well, which are clearly entirely executed (produced using strong gold, at that point hand-cleaned) however the mark hands of Urban Jürgensen are significantly more definite – particularly the hour hand and its regular “eye” on the tip. Urban Jürgensen hands are handcrafted. They are built of different parts that are independently sharpened, cleaned, amassed, and thermally blued to a predetermined shade. The steel arms of the hands are cut from uniquely chose steel and hand completed to the ideal shape and fit. Obviously, the blue shade is acquired from a warm treatment and not from a substance/painting measure (once more, that is the easy way). After cautious cleaning with progressively fine grain precious stone paper, the final product is a superb mirror polishing.
The “eye” of great importance hand is a concentrically precious stone cleaned strong gold addition, held set up by the sheer precision of the fit. The eye is planned with an uneven math, by tightening the volume from the dial community towards the tip of the hand. The strong gold place canons for the hands are turned on an exactness machine and afterward reflect cleaned (and due to their shape, these canons must be cleaned by hand). The arms of the hands have then been painstakingly bolted set up around the canons for the ideal fit.
The tear-drop lugs
What may, from the outset, appear to be a straightforward plan component is really the result of an incredible specialized interaction and tedious human tasks. For sure, the mark “teardrop lugs” of the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG are not simply hauls. In extravagance watchmaking, following an efficient modern interaction, drags are machine processed out as a coordinated piece of the case (cases can also be created through a a stepping measure, significantly quicker and obviously cheaper). However, the “teardrop lugs” on Urban Jürgensen’s watches are individually fashioned, heat treated, hand-cleaned, and independently patched onto the watch case in a manner which makes the binding line imperceptible to the exposed eye.
Forging these “teardrop lugs” requires somewhere in the range of 5 and 8 cycles through an interaction where gradually the last type of a combined tear drop set is fashioned into shape under the tension of 50 tons. When this activity is complete, the combined drags are then isolated from their base, and deliberately processed and hand-cleaned into the ideal fit for the case patching. The patching cycle is a very much left well enough alone, coming about in a ideal point of all carries simultaneously – and with no obvious fastening line. This interaction is done on a few materials like platinum, white gold, yellow gold or, on account of the present Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, pink gold – and obviously, the liquefying purpose of these materials is different, implying that extraordinary consideration should be taken during the welding process.
The hand-finished movement
This new Urban Jürgensen 1140RG is more than just a case, a dial, drags and hands – what is named the habillage in watchmaking, or the outer pieces of a watch. This 1140RG is additionally a development, and an extraordinary one to be straightforward. Obviously, the restrictive Caliber P4 (made by Chronode, elite to the brand) is somewhat basic: hours, minutes, little seconds and an old style Swiss switch escapement (no complex detent escapement here) that beats at 3Hz/21,600vph. It highlights refinements however, like a twin-barrel (for the force save – 72h – yet in addition for exactness), a stop-second and it is changed in an exact manner. In any case, the entirety of that remains rather accidental. What makes this development deserving of interest is the completing and the decoration – and indeed Urban Jürgensen didn’t go for the simple option.
Let’s go crescendo. To start with, the Geneva stripes. They are finished by people and not by a CNC machine. Moreover, they show a particular example, transmitting from the focal point of the equilibrium wheel – and this example impeccably moves from one bridge to another. At that point, the inscriptions. Most developments are engraved somewhat, with the name of the production, the quantity of gems, the reference, etc… Usually, these are done simultaneously as the cutting tasks are performed to shape the extensions. Here, you can undoubtedly see that the special number of the watch is applied on a screwed plate, additionally enhanced. At that point, sinks and screws. Gems are embedded in cleaned sinks and screws are heat-blued and their heads are reflect cleaned by hand – by and by, something that you just find in haute-horlogerie.
Many different subtleties merit referencing, for example, the wheels with inclined spokes or the wrench wheel with round graining. In any case, the most striking improvement detail on this Urban Jürgensen 1140RG (and with all watches from the brand with the Caliber P4, like the recent Jules Collection ) is the work done on the scaffolds and the anglages. Not exclusively are the edges inclined and cleaned, yet there are some complex shapes with what epicureans call internal or sharp angles. Normally, slants are pre-executed during the machining cycle, and afterward precious stone cleaned, anyway on account of the manner in which it bores the metal, a machine can just make bends and not sharp points. To acquire this, a prepared watchmaker (the finisseur) will gradually make these sharp and sharp breaks, which are constantly seen as a proof of “hand-made” enrichment. Tedious, careful however bringing about a sublime decoration.
As we’ve attempted to show here, with the assistance of this new Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, the contrast among extravagance and top of the line watchmaking unquestionably covers up in the little subtleties that probably won’t be obvious from the outset. Just a nearby review and prepared eyes can recognize these distinctions. Nonetheless, when instructed to these subtleties and to the cycles drew in to acquire them, you can truly value the excellence of a hand-made watch – and comprehend why they can cost 3 to multiple times in excess of a watch from a standard brand. In the current case, the 1140RG is no exemption for the standard and seems, by all accounts, to be an eminent traditional watch, rich and careful from the start, anyway with a crazy measure of subtleties – and that altogether legitimizes its cost of CHF 29,900 (before charges). More data on www.urbanjurgensen.com .
Technical Specifications – Urban Jürgensen 1140RG
- Case: 40mm width – cycle 3-piece case, with a raised bezel and bound carries – 18k rose gold, cleaned by hand – sapphire gem on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Dial: hand-guilloche brown dial – Circular brushed part ring, Hand completed guilloche dial on strong silver plate – strong gold cudgel files – hand made steel and gold hands
- Movement: Caliber P4, restrictive – manual winding – 3Hz recurrence – 72h force hold – 32mm width x 5.20mm thickness – hand-made embellishment – hours, minutes, little seconds
- Strap: crocodile cowhide tie (20/16) on gold pin-buckle
- Reference: 1140RG
- Price: CHF 29,900 (ex. taxes)